I went to Berja in Spain by bus from Almeria. You can read about how to get to Almería by clicking here: How to get to Almeria.
The trip to Berja was inspired by an old magazine I borrowed from some shop in Almeria. The magazine had interesting articles about tourism in Andalusia and it was there that I first read about Berja and that the town has a 16th century tower.
So, Berja Spain is a town located in the province of Almeria on the southeastern slope of the Sierra de Gádor (Sierra de Gádor). It has a population of approx. 14,000.
History of Berja in Spain
A little history: there are versions that Berja may have both Phoenician and Iberian origins. The city was known to the Romans as Verga or Vergium, and was part of the province of Baitica. There are traces of the Roman Empire in the surrounding area: an amphitheatre and an aqueduct, as well as mosaics, the style and production of which are similar to those found in Pompeii and Herculaneum.
There was a major earthquake in the fifth century, then Berja was occupied by the Moors and in 1489 by Christian troops. In 1568 there was a rebellion against the imposition of Christianity, which led to the deaths of more than half the inhabitants. Only 20 years later, when two hermits arrived in Berja and founded the church of Virgen de Gádor, did the inhabitants begin to practice Christianity.
On the 25th of August 1804, an earthquake destroyed a large portion of the town. The town began to prosper in the 19th century with the opening of lead mines. Now all the mines are closed. Nowadays, the town has a solar power plant on top of Mount Montivel, which was opened in 2007.
A day trip to Berja
Let’s finish the historical excursion and get back to the trip to Berja in Spain. I arrived at the town’s bus station, from which, after asking the locals for directions, I arrived at the plaza fairly quickly.
The central (aka only) square of the town is called Constitution Square. On the square is a small fountain and the beautiful Church of the Annunciation (Parroquia de la Anunciación) in an obscure architectural style more akin to neoclassicism.
The church has a long history of construction, starting as early as 1501 on the site of a mosque. However, the building was always “unlucky” – first it was burned during the uprising of 1568, then the rebuilt one was destroyed by an earthquake in 1804. It was not until 1879 that construction was completed.
The church is beautiful, as all Catholic churches are. On the main altar is the patron saint of the city of San Tazifon. On the table in the centre was bread, packed in sachets, and inside was an icon with words of prayer to St Antonio. Next to it was a small basket of change. There was no one to ask, so I threw €1 into the basket and took one bun.
There was also a small shop with icons, calendars and other church souvenirs. I really liked the pendant, but there wasn’t a soul in the temple, so I walked on without buying anything.
A few meters from the temple and the second landmark of Berja I really wanted to see: the Tower of Enciso (Torre de los enciso). This tower, formerly of a defensive nature, was built in the 16th century in the Mudejar style.
When the Christians forcibly imposed the faith, the local population was a danger to them, as they could raise a rebellion at any time. It was for this reason that a fortress was built, attached to the houses, in which they could take refuge. It served as a refuge for Christians during the Moorish rebellion of 1568.
The tower has recently been restored and is now an “open-air museum” that tells the story of Berja life in the 16th century. There is also a tourist office here (in the tower), which has a rather original mode of operation:
- weekdays except Wednesdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
- Wednesdays and Sundays from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
- holidays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
When I was there, everything was closed.
Then I went for a walk through the streets of Berja. But this was no Mohakar with its snow-white houses and bright colours. The streets in Berkhi were unremarkable and some were also very dirty. Along one of the streets I saw a building with a sign on it that read “The Grape Museum”.
Why grapes? The point is that after the collapse of the mining industry at the end of the 19th century, Berja in Spain went through an economic crisis and the export of table grapes was set up to replenish the city coffers. Unfortunately, the museum was closed.
Moving on. It’s very hot. Berja has one of the sunniest, warmest and driest climates in the Mediterranean.
While walking around the city I didn’t meet a single tourist. Berja gives the impression of being a bit deserted. Walking along the street, I saw a small house with a small altar in the window (it wasn’t even a window, just a lattice). What it is, I never knew. I couldn’t find any signs.
I also saw an interesting plant in town – huge white gramophone bells.
I went back to the bus station. While I was waiting for the bus, I got into a conversation with the station worker. He said that there was a beautiful lake near Berja, but it was better to go there by car.
Useful information about Berja
What are the bus timetables between Almeria and Berja?
From Almeria to Berja:
- Monday to Friday: 08.00; 10.00; 10.30; 11.30; 12.15; 12.30; 13.30; 14.30; 15.00; 16.30; 19.30
- Saturday: 08.30; 09.30; 11.30; 12.30; 13.30; 15.00; 16.30; 18.30; 20.00
- Sunday: 08.30; 11.30; 12.30; 13.30; 15.00; 18.30; 20.00
From Berja to Almeria:
- Monday to Friday: 06.30; 07.15; 08.45; 09.15; 11.00; 11.15; 12.30; 13.30; 14.30; 15.30; 17.00; 21.15
- Saturday: 08.00; 09.15; 11.45; 13.30; 14.30; 15.30; 18.00; 20.15
- Sunday: 09.30; 11.00; 13.30; 15.30; 18.00; 20.15
Where to stay in Berja?
You can book online from Berja not in the city but in the surrounding area, especially in El Ejido 14,5 km far from Berja with prices starting from 50 euro/night (Hostal “la Costa”) and 70-80 euro/night (4 star hotel Gran Hotel Victoria”).
