Alcazaba de Almería is the “heart” of the sunny Andalusian city of Almería. The full name of the ensemble, one of the most important architectural monuments of the Iberian Peninsula, is Alcazaba and the Walls of the Cerro de San Cristóbal.
During my long stay in Almería, we visited the Alcazaba fortress three times. The best time to walk here, of course, is in spring, when it’s not so hot and the cacti and other exotic plants are in bloom.
From the centre, where we lived, it’s a long way to the Alcazaba fortress. You could in principle take a bus, but I think you can walk around everything in Almeria.
So the first time I walked by myself and got a little lost. I kind of followed the signs. I ended up in the upstairs area in the port area, and met a girl who told me to go downstairs. I went down and somewhere ahead I saw the remains of a wall, which I headed towards. When I saw the sign of Almeria crossed out, I realized that I’d gone out of the city, so I guess there’s something wrong. 🙂
Luckily for me, I met a man walking his dogs. As it turned out, he lives right near the fortress of Alcazaba. With him I reached my destination. By the way, he warned me that the area was not a pleasant one and it was a bad place to be at night. He also told me that in the past the houses adjacent to the Alcazaba fortress were of a different variety and it was only about 10 years ago when they were all built in the same style to harmonise with the fortress.
In general Almeria reminds me a lot of Morocco, but in this neighbourhood the Arab influence and colour are particularly strong. The 1963 cult film “Cleopatra”, starring Elizabeth Taylor, was filmed here for a reason.
Construction of the Alcazaba fortress started in 955 by Abderram III and was completed by Ayran, king of Almeria, in the 11th century. After Almeria was conquered by the Christians, the Alcazaba was slightly modified by the Catholic kings and by Carlos I.
The Alcazaba architectural ensemble is divided into three parts.
First part: the gardens and the Alcazaba tower
Previously this area served both as a military camp and as a shelter for civilians in case of siege. By 1522 there was an earthquake which destroyed much of the town, including the shelter. No documents describing the original appearance have ever been found. For this reason, during the restoration it was decided to make a series of gardens and decorations similar to the Alhambra in Granada.
In the garden you can relax in the shade from the scorching heat, feed the fish in the pond and admire the cats. There are also vending machines with water and sweets (chocolates and waffles only).
There was also a man in the first part of the fortress who warned of new ships entering the bay and of the dangers, and announced the curfew.
The second part of the Alcazaba fortress
Previously there was the residence of the rulers, or rather an entire city with a mosque, houses, baths, etc. Unfortunately, this city too was damaged in the earthquake, but you can see the remains. There is now the Al Mutasin Palace with all the rooms and the mosque, which was converted into a church at the end of the 15th century. Many of the smaller halls have screens that show a video of what it used to be like here. The video is very interesting and illustrative, especially if you are walking in the Alcazaba fortress in the month of July, you can just sit in the cool and relax.
There is also the Mirador de la Odalisca observation deck in the second part, which offers stunning views of the city and the port.
The Alcazaba fortress in Almeria: the third part of the complex
The third part of the Alcazaba fortress is the most modern. After the capture of Almeria in 1489, the Catholic monarch ordered the construction of a fortified military castle in the western and highest part. Construction began in 1490 and was completed in 1534 under Carlos I. There are 3 semi-circular towers, previously there were also many drawbridges and weapons. Unfortunately, not all the towers can be climbed, the entrance is fenced off.
From here the remains of the Jayrán wall, which surrounded the whole town, are clearly visible. The wall has a total of seven towers.
And you can also see the marble statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Sagrado Corazón de Jesús en el Cerro de San Cristóbal), located on the highest point of the Cerro de San Cristóbal. The statue was built in 1930 and restored in 2000.
By the way, I recommend making sure to go to this statue separately. It is the highest point in the city and the panorama from there is magnificent. The only thing is that it, as well as the Alcazaba fortress, is better to go there during the day, not in the dark.
Alcazaba: useful information
Ticket prices: Entrance to the Alcazaba fortress in Almeria is free of charge.
Opening hours
The monument is closed on Mondays.
January 1st to March 31st and September 16th to December 31st:
- Tuesday to Saturday: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- Sundays and public holidays: 9.00-15.00
From 1 April to 30 June:
- Tuesday to Saturday: 9.00-21.00
- Sunday and public holidays: 9.00-15.00
From 1 July to 15 September:
- Tuesday-Saturday: 9.00-15.00; 19.00-22.00
- Sunday and public holidays: 9.00-15.00
Advice
1. A minimum of half a day is needed to get around the whole complex.
2. It is better to take a snack with you because the Alcazaba fortress itself only has water and snack machines. Therefore, a sandwich will not be out of place.
3. There are plenty of Arabic, Spanish, and international restaurants and cafés around the fortress of Alcazaba. These cafes are, as is often the case in tourist spots, expensive. You can walk down a bit towards the centre and along the way there are cheap Turkish and Moroccan cafés. Many of them are not as presentable, but the food is very good.
